- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1:
begin on the left side of the southern arete, and climb the arete on featured rock to a small ledge. Then fire up the crux headwall via chickenheads and underclings to another small ledge. Moderate climbing then leads to a good stance with an anchor,
12 bolts, 5.8-, 95 feet.
Pitch 2:
continue past the anchor on easy terrain to a steep short, headwall finish,
3 bolts, 5.7, 40 feet.
It requires two rappels to rappel down the route or you can do a single rope rappel to the west with a single 60m. Tie knots, and watch the ends of the rope.
In my opinion, since the top of pitch 2 has a horrible stance, it's best to lead and combine the first two pitches and then lower to the top of pitch 1. Then have the follower climb both pitches, clean the top of pitch two, and lower back to the top of pitch 1. Once the the anchor is cleaned, then both climbers can rappel from the top of pitch 1 to the base of the route.
Location
This is on the left side of the southern arete.
Protection
Draws.
Routes in Chernobyl
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