- Edit (TBD)
Description
The term "classic" was made for routes like Zoo View. The Select Climbs guide calls this "possibly the best 5.7 in North Carolina;" in fact, it may very well be the best for the grade in the southeast. The wild exposure and the juggy roof make for an experience on lead that you won't soon forget. A trip to Moore's just to do this one superlative climb would not be a wasted one.
P1 -- Starting at the base of Sentinel Buttress, climb the first pitch of that route or any of the variations to get to the Crow's Nest ledge. 5.5, 80'
P2 -- From the left end of the Crow's Nest, make a tenuous and exposed traverse left, clipping a bolt; continue left to the base of a crack system (be sure to adequately protect the traverse for your second). Climb the crack up to an alcove/rest stance below an imposing roof; pull the roof on fantastic holds, then continue up a steep section to easier ground, topping out in the trees. Enjoy the view! 5.7+, 140'
To descend after you top out, scramble climber's right to the bolted rap station at the top of that climb and make two raps to the ground.
Location
Shares the start with Sentinel Buttress.
Protection
Take a full range of cams and passive pro; small pieces are useful to protect the traverse. Bring plenty of slings, including double-lengths, to avoid rope drag. Double ropes are a plus. Build a gear anchor and/or sling trees.