The Buzzworm

A good blue-collar line that will allow all the wanna-be OW heroes of Instagram a chance to use that shiny #7 that has otherwise been collecting dust in their closet. The first pitch is worth doing on its own even if you're not interested in continuing up the wide groveling above. This moderate crack line tops out a detached spire summit adjacent to, and more freestanding than, the Fisher King summit. The upper pitches are all short, but were broken up at good stances; with more gear or bumping, linking is certainly feasible. Climbed ground-up in a mission, this didn't get much cleaning, so be aware of what you're pulling on. Named after the resident rattler that was lingering in the talus near the base of the route on each of our visits. The line faces northeast, and gets shade after late morning, offering a rare opportunity to climb comfortably in Marg's in the warmer seasons.  P1--Pull dusty edges past a bolt to a fingercrack in a tight corner. Pass a 2nd bolt, traverse hard left into a right-facing corner system that widens from fingers-tight hands before transitioning into a cupped-hands splitter to a marginal belay stance. A good, physical crack pitch on mostly great Schnebly. (.10+, 120')P2--Fistcrack to squeeze chimney with a crux bulge, finish up easier chimney to a good ledge. (.10, 70')P3--Steep, clean squeeze chimney with a fingercrack fracture on the left face. Easier chimney with minimal pro leads to a dirty, loose traverse left to a belay ledge. This final bit is the worst part of the route, and a little heady. (10-, 70')P4--A short wide layback yields a finger-handcrack (center of 3 cracks) to a ledge, and an easier finish to the great flat summit. (.9, 50') Rappel the line. The final rappel is too long to rap straight down with a single 70m, angle into the corridor to the climbers right (north) of the route. This is bit tricky to manage, and a second rope or an 80m are recommended if you're not into rappel shenanigans. 

Find Fisher King, hike uphill (north) from the base for a couple of hundred feet. Look for the low bolt identifying the start. It lies on the outside of a corridor with the old-school line Fire in the Sky. See the overview topo pic. It's pretty easy to find. 

In BD sizes:(1X) red C3, .3, .4(3X) .5(1X) .75, #1(2X) #2(3-4X) #3(1X) #4, #5, #6, #7(1X) 70m rope possible, although some shenanigans make an 80m or two ropes advisable if you're not dialed in tricky rappels