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Peak Mountain 3

Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie

FA Micah Issac, T. Bubb, 6/26/11
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a good route with a great crux and some surprising holds. This is the best route on the Third Advisor.

Climb up the left-leaning, finger-to-hand sized cracks and offsets past a hard move to get off the ground, and onto a small ledge. Place gear from the first ledge and pass a few small clumps of grass up and left into moderate climbing. Head up into the crack as it heads up into the pinched block at the bulge/roof. Place good gear (2" cam) before hitting the pinched block, then go up and into the pinched block on good holds to pull the surprising crux. Top out and belay the second from gear (3-4" cams a few meters back might be the best belay).

To descend, scramble West at the rock's Northern edge down a very shallow gully to the ground - 3rd class.

Location

This route is on the upper Northwest end of the Third Advisor, following a left-leaning crack through the bulging roof at the rock's Northern-most point, just below the summit.

Protection

A standard light rack to 3". The crux gear is 1.5-2" cams.