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Peak Mountain 3

Central Chimney Direct

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Description

This route sucks, don't do it. The Chimney is extremely obvious when you reach the base of the Dome. It starts with a small bulge/overhang and continues up the widening off-width to chimney for about 230 ft. to a large ledge. There is a large bird's nest in the crack which is difficult not to disturb as you thrutch by, pro is tricky unless you have Big Bros and the grade seems a sandbag for all except the off-width master. I didn't enjoy this route at all and only add it here so that others may be able to avoid suffering as I did. When I did this route we ended up having to do some rather sketchy simul-climbing, it is difficult to arrange a belay in the Chimney and it doesn't let up for over 200 feet, I think I got in two pieces of gear and slung a chockstone. Climb Sugar Magnolia.

Protection

BIG STUFF, ie. #4 or #5 Camalot, Big Bros etc.