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MapDescription
- Gain a ledge, then follow a line of bolts up a smooth face (5.10a) to a good stance. Continue left past a lichen strip, then go straight up on easier rock to a hanging belay at a small tree on the left. 90', 5.10a 2. Move right along a ramp, plug in a small cam, and overcome a steep wall protected by bolts (5.10c). Nice moves on perfect granite lead past bolts to a horizontal crack and overlap. Two more bolts lead over another steep section (5.9) to a great ledge. After a 5.7 move, scramble up to a belay at a large pine. 175', 5.10c 3. Low angle face climbing leads straight up to a bolt at 40'. Follow a shallow groove with pockets to the top and a tree belay. Take a few moments to relax and enjoy the scenery. The view is one of the best in the mountains. 110', 5.6
Descent: 3 rappels lead to the ground. First, rap back down to the pine. The next rap station is 160' straight down. The final rap ends at the start of the route.
Location
This route heads up the tallest portion of the slab, starting just right of a boulder leaning against the cliff that forms a cave. GPS 44.02739, -071.40877
Protection
A light rack of about 8 draws and a couple of cams to 1" will suffice. Two ropes needed for rappel or you will need to hike(shwack) back around (to climbers left). If you plan on hiking back down, bring your packs up. You won't want to come all the way back to the base.
Routes in Meadow Brook Slabs
- 2Kindred Spirits5.10cTrad