Ultramega OK

Good route that could be excellent if it had more traffic. When we climbed it in August of 2018 it was still quite lichen-y.

Much beta taken from Herrington's excellent Cascades Rock book.

P1 - 5.8, 30m: Climb up twin cracks and carefully over loose blocks, step left and continue up to a nice ledge.

P2 - 5.8, 55m: Step right to a chimney and continue up a right-facing crack to a twin crack system. Belay at a small stance.

P3 - 5.9, 20m: Trend up and left with some delicate face moves. You should see the obvious finger-crack roof of P4 above you. Belay in a small alcove below a tricky bulge.

P4 - 5.11a, 25m: Climb over the bulge and up a thin corner to the roof. Climb left around the roof on decent holds and jams and up to a stance belay.

P5 - 5.9, 30m: Trend up and right via the easiest path, protecting occasional seams with many nuts. Set up a belay below a big corner.

P6 - 5.9, 55m: A tricky move up into the dirty corner eventually leads to nice hand and finger jams. Continue up to the buttress crest and then traverse left to belay.

P7 - 5.9, 35m: Step left to a big corner/chimney system. Thrutch your way up the easy wide cracks and tight chimneys back up to the buttress crest.

P8 - 5.8, 60m: Climb left past an old bolt and up a rail or a hand crack toward the summit. Downclimb and step right and finish up an offwidth crack to the summit

We got lost after P7 and traversed on ledges to the north face route, climbed up the 5.10a squeeze chimney variation to the summit. P8 here is as described in Cascades Rock.

From Burgundy Col, scramble loose rock or steep snow down and around the north face of Burgundy until you arrive at a twin crack system (with some obvious loose blocks about 60 ft up). Action Potential is about 15 ft further left up a clean flake.

Doubles to #2, 1 #3, 1 #4.