The Two Sides of Purple

A continuation of Pinhead, start on that route but about 8 feet below its anchor, bust right and up to an obvious OW pod guarding access to the right-facing corner above. This is the first of three OW sections you will encounter on your way to the anchor. You will want a #5 Camalot and bump it up this section with you.

Grunt up to the next section of wideness, #4 works here. As the crack disappears you will find a nice new bolt waiting for you to clip. Stem, smear and grovel up to the last short pod below the anchor. Have a #2 Camalot ready, plug it in and make a move or two to the anchor.

When I led this I used everything from a 00 C3 (purple) to the #5 Camalot (purple) hence the route name. It is still fresh, so be mindful of what you grab onto.

Cams from tiny to #5 Camalot, save a #2 for the top. 1 bolt on the route and a three bolt anchor with chain and rapid links. Please do not pirate the links.