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Peak Mountain 3

Tower of Power

FA Larry Day, Ed Pearsall (1979)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The only thing that will do this route justice is Larry Day's personal account --

"Apologies in advance for the shameless promotion of my own route, but Tower of Power has a somewhat significant roof. In fact it is pretty cool, not your typical RRG type roof but more of a Gunks kind of problem. Geezer, it really shouldnt be too hard to spot. Directly above the crack that forms the first pitch you will see a flake that is somewhat detached from the roof above. Haul your ass up on to that flake and sit astride it in a kind of mambo? stance. You know what I mean, leaning way back, cause the roof will be right in your face. Reach way out to the lip and you will find a great hold, and best of all a bomber tricam (1.5 or maybe a 2) placement in a vertical crack (slotted, not cammed). Screw up your courage, pull the roof, and KEEP YOUR %#^ TOGETHER because its kinda run out on 5.10 face above. Its way exhilarating, and not nearly so hard as Insanity Ceiling. Together with the stupendous first pitch (The Corner, 5.9) it is truly one of the best old school climbs in the Gorge. I am really not trying to sandbag anyone. The first pitch starts out somewhat ugly and strange, then becomes beautiful beyond belief. Then there is the matter of the runout above the roof. Definitely a place where only the big boys and girls should play. One of my favorite climbs anywhere."

Location

Around the right corner from Caver's Route is a large roof 100+ feet up. Either approach via  the obvious wide, sandy dihedral -- The Corner (5.9) -- or rappel in off the top to the blocky belay on a sloping ledge (gear anchor takes BD #2-3 & .5-.75)

Protection

Get creative, there isn't much. Take a look at the original FA photos in the North Gorge guidebook.