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Peak Mountain 3

Gollum's Column

FA Jim Knight, Christian Knight
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An attention-grabbing first pitch (pitch 3, counting from the ground) with crumbly white and yellow quartzite to a bolted-anchor belay.

From the belay, climb left and up onto the south-facing aspect of the column for the start of the next pitch. Up the face on positive, sometimes nerve-wracking holds, and then around the east (right) side. From here step back onto the main face.

There are belay anchors at this point. Either stop and belay the second, or just continue up through sparse bolts and glassy shards to the top.

Location

Left side of

Trilogy Buttress

; the obvious columnar prominence.

Climb either

Wizardly Way

or P2 of

Lord of the Slings

, then follow the left-most bolt line at the left side of the upper face.

Protection

P1

5 bolts, ring anchors.

P2

10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.