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Peak Mountain 3

A Different School of Thought

FA Massey Teel, Seth Pettit 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: Climb the ramp to the roof (optional 5" piece), traverse left to the corner and continue directly up corner through a series of roofs and bulges (crux). Once the angle backs off trend left through the next roof, continue up the corner. Traverse right to the bolts at the top of the second pitch of Muscle Beach. (150' 5.10+)

P2: Move up then trend left to the arete. Follow the arete up through a final bulge at the top, ending just right of Ecstasy. (5.7 50')

The first pitch features very sustained climbing with some significant sections of questionable gear. Alot of loose rock was cleaned through multiple attempts but some still remains.

Location

On the south end left of the cave. Look for a black ramp between the start of Sixth Sense and Muscle Beach. Either locate the cave rappel or hike to descend.

Protection

This route was established ground up with out the use of any fixed protection. No old pitons, or other signs of climbing were found on the route. The first pitch requires a large rack beyond the standard Seneca rack. Micro-nuts, nuts, tri-cams, single set of cams to 3", double to 1.5", extra slings, triple micro cams in the 1 to 2 TCU range would not go unused. Double ropes are useful for managing the drag and the loose rock. The first pitch shares the bolted station of Muscle Beach's 2nd pitch. The second pitch anchor is gear and natural features at the top of the cliff.