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Peak Mountain 3

The Far West

FA P. Johnson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Gain the upper Royal face by climbing the lower pitches of

Royal Flush

or

Royal Rocklette

. Bushwhack and scramble west towards the right hand skyline of the Royal face, look for a left-facing corner with a hand crack about 100 feet off the ground.

Pitch 1. Climb a clean, run-out slab through some suspicious flakes, pull a protected overlap to gain the left-facing, corner-hand crack 5.6 R, 100 feet. Build a belay (#2 BD) in the corner next to a small tree.

Pitch 2. Step over the tree to the right. shoot up through some steep terrain with good gear and good holds, 5.6, 120 feet. Belay at a nice ledge off of a big boulder.

Pitch 3. Traverse left out into some blocky cracks, then hop over to the right side of the buttress and climb up the groove, take care on what you pull on, 5.6, 120 feet.

Pitch 4. Climb up the arete, 5.5, and belay on the large terrace above the central chimney.

Pitch 5. Climb up super lose terrain or climb a nice 5.7 finger crack to the left of a pine tree, 50 feet.

Descend down the Mt. Royal trail.

Protection

SR up to a BD #3.