- Edit (TBD)
Description
(I say PG-13 only because there isn't perfect gear t/o the entire climb).
Begin left of the large flake (
Godspeed,
5.12), with a bouldery start to reach the ledge. Place a cam (yellow Alien) and traverse/mount the ledge. Climb straight up the flake (note that the out-of-sight crack/flake on the right is necessary for hands,and eventually gear. Follow the obvious traditional line up to the small vertical wall and quasi-rest. Move up and left smearing with body english (watch the barn door!). This should make you a bit nervous, but once your feet are up a bomber cam can be placed in the upper crack. I think that there are 2 cruxes with this being the last.
Rap from the chains on the ledge (
Freewheelin'
).
This is a fun climb on and is fairly sustained. I climbed this on self-belay (manual feed), so the rating may be a bit off. Also, see
Freewheelin'
and main MM photos.
Protection
Standard Aliens and nuts with extra set of small cams (yellow - blue) - also one 2" and one 3" can be used near the top.
Routes in Mushroom Massif
- 13Locked and Loaded5.9+Trad