Ancient Arts Simulator

P1:  A3+ 130ft

Climb a small beak seam and traverse left about 30 feet to gain an inviting, vertical crack. Work upwards, with thinner placements on the face to gain a vertical, right-facing flake. Continue up this somewhat hollow flake through the bulge to belay at two bolts.

P2:   A3-  80ft

From the belay step right, up a seam to the overhang, work right around the overhang and continue right towards a big flaring butt. Grapple directly with this and gain a two-bolt belay.

P3:  A3  50ft

From belay step right into the mud groove. Continue upwards, nailing, stemming and mantling your way towards a thin seam through a bulge (bolt). Just below the saddle, find a path through the gray band of compressed kitty litter to two-bolt belay on saddle.

P4:  A2     60ft

Shuffle across the land bridge then tunnel your way left towards a bolt. Traverse a few more feet to a consistent crack that will take you up past a large ledge to two good bolts just below the summit.

P5:    A2   15ft

From belay, step right to a crack, follow to the summit. This can be combined with P4; the two bolts were placed on the last bit of solid rock and in the face of an incoming thunderstorm.

Descent:

Rappel 15 feet from webbing wrapped around the summit gargoyle to the 2-bolt anchor. Rappel 60 feet from here to the “land bridge” and the 2-bolt anchor atop P3. From here, a single rappel with two 70m ropes reaches the ground.

This route takes the southeast face pretty directly. Start in a small right-facing corner, 30ft right of a large, freshly-fractured roof.

Gear:

Pitons: I set “Universal” pitons, 2 Spectres, 15 beaks/peckers, selection regular pins from knifeblades, Lost Arrows, a few small/med angles, 1 Warthog.

Cams: 2 each: Green Alien to #1 Camalot, 1 each: larger cams to #5 Camalot

Small selection of nuts/stopperheads