The Shivering Sphincter

Sick, good fun, and usually shady. This route delivers a stiff boulder problem right from the get go. Start with a right hand pocket that can be used like a multi-tool. Crimp with your left hand and stick a left foot up high. Rock on that left foot to a dynamic move that ends with a super-duper, left-hand pocket that is an absolute bucket.

From this bucket hold, move right to a hidden pocket that is located around a corner in the blonde area. Get set up on small, yet secure feet and you are off the races. Cling and layback your way up a flake. Stuff your fingers and hands into all sorts of pockets and work your way from small, insecure holds to jugs with lots of big, five-fun-plus moves that will keep your sphincter clenched all the way to the anchors.

Find the flagship wall with routes like Pular Express and head back towards the road on a trail on the left side of a downed tree. Yes, you can use the tree for a comfortable bench. Walk this trail just a short ways past the short, black rock with four bolts in it. The Shivering Sphincter is the right most route on a black face found, within a small alcove, up the slope a bit from the trail.

Stick clip first bolt. Bring 8 quickdraws. Open anchors.