- Edit (TBD)
Description
This line is located near the left side of the Battle of the Bulge Wall and would be hard to miss.
Start underneath a one-foot roof and climb a wide-hands crack for 15ft. to the roof. Be careful of the loose flakes inside this initial crack. Pull over the roof on fists to wide fists. Battle up the crack for another 30ft. until you can get a knee in. Work up the crack as it gradually widens to chain anchors.
I got some key beta afterwards from Vera the offwidth master, who recommended climbing the route in sticky rubber approach shoes. I had a hard time keeping my feet from slipping and I agree that approach shoes would give you that extra little width for good foot jams.
Location
On the left end of Battle of the Bulge Wall, immediately left of Our Piece of the Real Estate.
Protection
(based on the old camalot size) #3.5, (3) #4, (3)4.5, (3) #5 camalot. New #6 Camalots are good too for the top. There's also a single piton bolt almost 1/2 way up, just before you can get your knee in the crack.
Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress
- 16The Big Baby5.11Trad