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Peak Mountain 3

Cape of Storms

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Description

What a gem! Get on this route!

-Start out in the corner by the thorns and stem-start. OR if clean enough, you can pull yourself straight into the crack.

-Then you follow the finger/tight-hand crack up and utilize the left crack above the bushes to reach a handledge.

-Beware the two blocks, I tried moving them a bit and they seem solid (the higher one even moreso), but we'll see with more traffic.

-You now pull into the AMAZING (for me) small cups Splitter! #3's (more like 2.5). Climb it straight up, or stem out to the right wall when needed to keep things 5.9

-Pull into tight hands with plenty of face holds on either side to the top.

  • You can use a fallen tree and two other strongly rooted trees in the meantime for an anchor and belay your partner up. <-- recommended

(otherwise rappel down, and retrieve your anchor later. It is easy to get to. You will have to walk away from the cliff a bit to pull your rope)

(Note 1: I cleaned a lot of lichen, thorns, and blocks big and small from the route and on top, so topping out shouldn't be TOO terrifying.)

(**Note 2: I tried cleaning the block with the X, but it would not trundle. I will try to return with a crowbar to free it.)

Location

Located down and to the Skier's right of Dinka Tower and Hand Cannibal.

Hand Cannibal is on the back side of Dinka Tower and not the best approach to  Cape of Storms.  Take the fixed line down the talus past Juba and the Lion and to the main wall and follow it until it faces east. About a 65 foot decent using the rope.  One of the last stretches of rock on the cliff line before it turns to choss.

Protection

If I did it again, I would use: .4, .5, .75 (x2), #1 (x3), #2, #3 (x2).

You don't necessarily need all of that though. You can make it with .3 to #3 in Singles you WILL likely want two #3's for the excellent splitter though.