- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1 Easy scramble up to a steep clean corner with a clean corner crack that takes medium cams, 1.5" and 2" A 5.6 mantle up and right on chickenheads takes you to a clean slab with an unknown, abandoned quarter inch old rawl drive bolt, to which we have attached an smc hanger to protect a 5.7 move to below the crux corner. Protection for the pitch 1 crux (5.9) is a sickle shaped, down facing crack that takes two TCUs. Climb straight up to a Fixe 3/8" hanger (our first bolt) Traverse left and up past one more bolt, moving up and left to unseen crimps (very fun!) to the belay ledge. Anchors are 10 feet above the belay stance to facilitate a clean rappel.Pitch 2 Traverse 20 feet left from the belay stance then climb the obvious right facing corner to a fixed pin (Grivel Z-ton) then make a fun step down and left to the obvious arrete with great plates and heads. Bolt 1 will appear soon, on this C-shaped pitch. Climb up and right past two more bolts to a large overlap. Climb right along overlap to a great 1.5" to 2" cam placement. (Four foot runner) Just right of placement is a stemming corner with a down-pointing 4-inch rock finger atop the corner, stem up this to chickenhead out left, mantle and clip 4th bolt, step right and up to belay alcove. (Pitch 2 crux (5.9); second ascensionist stated it was the crux of the climb)Pitch 3 Continue up the corner twelve feet with pro for small nuts or TCUs From crack, climb up and slightly right to large chickenhead/ledge Clip the one bolt for this pitch. Stepping left and up along a diagonal shallow scoop to a vertical 1/8" to 5/32" crack that fits the two smallest CAMP Ballnutz (bomber) 5.6 moves quickly lead to dike hiking up beautiful horizontal quartz dikes, climbing straight up to anchors (Two 3/8" Fixe hangers)Pitch 4 Easy 70 foot scramble straight up to the first tree (tree is chained and rap ring equipped.) From here, to summit scramble straight up and slightly right into a inside corner for fun third class going up and down. Ledge atop Wily Javelina/Table for Two will be on your right on the way to the summit. Route is easily rappelled with a 60m rope on last rappel to ground, fifteen feet of mellow third class downclimbing takes you to the ground. With a 70m rope, you land on the deck with no downclimbing.
Location
South Buttress of Table Dome. Leave creek at southern toe of the east wall and climb easy lion trails up fun, easy second class, continue along base of wall to apex of the slope. If you go past the 3 foot saguaro, you've gone too far. Pictures of first pitch were taken from the copious hang at the base. Scramble up 20 feet of easy third class to a sumptuous belay ledge which marks the beginning of the feast.
Protection
Backcountry trad rack, the two smallest Camp Ballnuts, nothing over 3 Inches is needed. Lots of 2-foot and 4-foot runners. This climb has been bolted with the 5.8 climber in mind, with the second bolt on the first pitch added after the first ascent to improve the safety and quality of the route.