- Edit (TBD)
Description
Find the Lowest point of the The Toe and go Up.
Pitch 1 5.9 90' 8 bolts, one 2" cam, 1 shoulder length sling. Bolted anchor.
Two bolts off the ground lead to a 2" cam placement. After this cam placement the 3rd bolt is a long runner off to the left, it's the 2nd bolt of Cactus Kiss. Clip the next bolt of Cactus Kiss also, but here's where CK steps hard right, and Up goes, up. Straight up into the red rock (5.9) and the anchor visible above.
Pitch 2 5.9 120' 6 bolts.
2nd pitch steps left off the belay onto the large low angle ledge. The 3 bolts you see above protect 5.9 face climbing. Once thru that you'll stand upright, look around, and wonder where to go. The answer is Up. 2 bolts visible above lead to bolted rap anchor. The bolt to the left across the grass is Cactus Kiss.
Rappelling from here: 35m straight down might get you to Cactus Kisses first pitch anchor. There's a small cactus to avoid.
90' rappel off this anchor is skier's left as you look down, over to Spark Joy's first pitch anchor, and then again skier's left down to Horseshoe's start.
Pitch 3 5.6 90' 6 bolts. optional small cam
3rd pitch you'll leave the belay and walk up and left to get back onto steeper rock. ~5 bolts above (5.6) lead you to a nice stance atop the crag.
40' above is another rappellable anchor atop the crag, useful if you're topping out. 4 raps back down to the start of Horshoe's, or 4 raps down Cactus Kiss.
Protection
One 2" cam, bolts.
Routes in The Toe
- 19Up.5.9Trad