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Death of the Blues
Description
This climb is what remains of the old climb Blues Drift and it's an obvious highball. Starts on a great flat jugs with decent feet. Move left hand to crimpy lower side pull and high hand-foot match with right foot. Grab slopey crimp with right hand followed by a bump to a higher side pull with left hand. The crux starts with locking off the left hand while standing tall and reach up and right towards good side pull (intermediate crimps could help). Bring left hand up to a dirty crimp and bump right hand higher to the good arrete. Walk feet up to small foot holds (a right toe hook on arrete helps) and slowly bring left hand to flat jug at the top for a good top out.
Location
From the trail looking at the Yosemite Boulder, the problem is located on the left-most face on the smaller of the 3 boulders. The start holds are hard to miss, just left of the crack that separates the boulders. Climb down by making your way behind the boulder down the chimney.
Protection
At least 2 pads with good spotters are needed for this problem. Because landing is sloped with jagged, protruding rocks laying all over the landing area, good coverage is necessary. It helps if spotters elevate one side of the crash pads with their knee to keep the landing zone "even" and softens the fall. Also make sure the right side of the landing zone is protected. If left hand pops during crux, climber will most likely pull himself to the right.
It is also advisable to clean the top out as moss and pine needles often blanket the top.
Routes in The Yosemite Boulder Area
- 13Death of the BluesV4Bouldering