- Edit (TBD)
Description
Hard from the start, this line commonly has a few cheater stones stacked up to allow the shorter folks to reach the starting pinch and sidepull. Getting to the first bolt feels like an easy V4 boulder problem leading to a giant flake-jug. From here it is just a matter of holding it together through the next 7 bolts of fun and straightforward climbing on positive edges and sidepulls. The final bulge offers one more brief challenge before the anchors can be clipped from a great jug. There is a large ledge slightly off route to the right towards the top. If you traverse over and get a full recovery before pulling the final bulge, the route goes at more like 11d from what I've heard. However, the moves are very doable without this rest and make for a full value 12a.
Recently a 40' extension has been added to the arete above the anchors, taking the line to the top, and while no move on the extension is all that hard, fighting the pump can be quite difficult. 95' to the 2nd anchors.
Location
This route starts on the lava looking rock in the cave and ascends a fairly steep face through a bulge.
Protection
9 bolts to the first anchor, 3 more if continuing to the top, plus draws for the anchors (incase the sport clip anchors are missing). Stick Clip is basically mandatory.
Route has been rebolted with solid SS bolts.
Routes in {10} Mordor
- 6The Crumbling5.12aSport