Flake Out aka Gill Route

Once you get above the tree, this route is terrific.

This route is the crack left of

Brown Sugar

, and has a small tree growing out of the crack halfway up it. Based on the amount of dirt in the crack below the tree, no one does this route.

You could certainly climb this with gear, but if you fall on the no-pro 11c face that is before the dirt-filled crack below the small tree, my guess is that you would hit the ledge, roll off it, then fall to your death. Which would be unfortunate since the 5.8 hand crack above the tree is such a pleasure. Great jams, good feet, a pleasure.

Obvious walkoff left.

Climb

Brown Sugar

and set anchors with cams at the top. It's easy to set up a good top rope. Then rap down to the ledge -- no problem with a 60m rope. Work the 11c section or start

Brown Sugar

and do an exciting pendulum to the Gill crack.