Prey

A series of corners, overhangs and slabs to the top of the Osprey Wall. There are a variety of rock types and some excellent crystal pocket holds. The pro is a mix of bolts and natural gear with the 3rd pitch being the only fully bolted pitch.

Pitch 1, “First Flight,” 5.6

The first pitch is a bolted slab that ends in a chute between two groves of trees. From the ground, spot the first bolt on the cleanest black and white granite. Scramble up dirty ledges to start the pitch. Exit this pitch to the right, then move the belay uphill and left beneath the corner.

4 bolts, 30m

Pitch 2, 5.9+

Start at the brown right facing corner with jagged rock. Stem your way up to a roof. After the roof move right to a short bolted slab. This takes you to the anchors beneath a clean, left facing corner. Some airy moves but the crux is well bolted.

5 bolts + gear, 40m

Pitch 3, 10c

The money pitch! Thoughtful, steep moves through roof systems on awesome white marbled rock. A direct line to the heavens with two overhangs and a full value arête.

Start on incut holds off the belay. Follow the steep corner and pass a roof, briefly moving right for a moment, then back left to follow the bolt line. At the final arête, follow the sustained face to the left or do some bigger dynamic moves out right.

11 bolts, 30m

Pitch 4, 10c PG13

An adventurous and long pitch. Limited gear options, search carefully! If you are unsure about route finding look for distant bolts.

Move horizontally off the belay to the right, placing small gear. At the huge exposed fins, move straight up to a four inch thick slung horn. Move up pockets and sidepulls to a stance with a small flaring horizontal. Follow bolts up a rightward diagonal ramp until at the final overhang. Protect your follower with a #1 at the end of the overhang, then continue up and right to a bolted belay at the top of the wall. Watch rope drag.

55m, 5 bolts + gear, 9 long slings

At the final belay, look climber’s left for a tree rap anchor.

From the small parking area, walk through the woods following cairns and trees flagged with climbing rope to the base of P1.

Doubles from Blue Alien to BD #1. A couple finger sized offset cams or Totems. Single #2. Small nuts, regular and offset.

13 quickdraws, many long slings for the last pitch.

Two ropes for rappelling.