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Peak Mountain 3

Southwest Face

FA Andi Orgler and Sepp Jochler, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This moderate and relatively straightforward route contains some of the best rock in the Ruth Gorge making Hut Tower one of the easiest summits to attain. First ascensionst Andi Orgler described the route as "relaxing climbing in the afternoon sun" and completed the climb in under 4 hours on the FA. The route contains 1 5.10 pitch, and a whole lot of moderate pitches on good rock. As of 2021, it appears the route does not get much traffic by the look of the rap anchors but this route is very worthy and can be completed by competent parties in a half day. There is a waterfall midway on pitch 8.The route starts on a big platform that is best accessed by often snowy 4th and low 5th class climbing in a gully to the right of the main corner at the base. Do not go up the gully that starts in the main corner. From the platform, follow the topo in "Alaska Climbing" by Joseph Puyear. Rap the last two thirds of the route then continue down the face to the left of the platform.

Location

Southwest Face of Hut Tower

Protection

Doubles from .2 to #2, 1 #3, nuts, 2x60m ropes


Routes in Hut Tower


  1. 1
    Southwest Face
    5.10c
    Alpine · Trad