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Description
This is a good little route and if it were twice as tall it would be three stars.
To find this route, hike west from the Cactus Rose wall a couple hundred yards, past a sparse collection of short routes. There are several steep walls that will be facing you as you hike westward. Look for the 4th of these walls, with a very steep and hideously thin bolted line up it - this is The Ultimatum (12c), and it rarely has a fleck of chalk on it. Look dead left of this and there is a nice large flat boulder, above this is a nice looking bolted arete which is this route.
Scramble up onto the block and cautiously crank up to the high first bolt. After the initial thin holds it will get more secure. From here, fire straight up the arete on good hidden pockets and edges. It seems as if the holds get a bit sharper the higher you go. A true arete climb, most likely you will be straddling it the whole way.
Either lower off of the last bolt, or scramble down to the east or to the west.
Protection
4 bolts. lower off of 4th, or top out and scramble down to the east or to the west.
Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff
- 26Munchkins on Parade5.10cSport