Mike Johnson Route

Find this route starting from the righthand end of the ledge that "

South Face Direct

" starts from.

Clip bolts up the wall on 5.7 and 5.8 climbing to the bulge. Decipher the bulge using trickery and slopers and continue on to the anchor. The bulge is much harder than the rest of the pitch and is only a move or two. This is worth doing if you have stopped an Elevenmile.

Six (now 5) bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Eds. Here is an explanation: per

Jesse Morehouse

: there are now only 5 protection bolts. It looks like there used to be 6 (buttonheads with homemade Leeper-style hangers), but those have either been removed or hammered flat (total eyesore), and the original anchor is higher on the wall than the current top anchor, which probably meant the original 6th protection bolt was about where the newer top anchor is.