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Peak Mountain 3

Scalpel

FA Shadow Ayala, Steve (Canada) Andrew - 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Scramble up to a ledge and head up the short smooth dihedral to a good hold to clip the third draw. Head straight left on jugs with no feet to reach a ledge where you can relax and contemplate the rest of the route.

When you're ready, continue up the beautiful face and move through a tough move involving a narrow pocket. Get to a matched set of large pockets and get ready for the crux.

The guidebook says to used a pair of matched razor crimps - they're kind of sharp, but not awful. This isn't the only beta, as there are a couple of other holds in the area. The left crimp is pretty good if you can get your fingers into it (it's kind of a narrow slot crimp). The right crimp next to it is pretty miserable.

Whichever beta you choose, get to the good hold by the next bolt and follow easier ground to the anchors.

It's 13a in the guidebook but it seems a bit soft.

Location

Just right of the ledge at the left side of the Morgue. Just left of Coroner.

Protection

8 bolts to anchor