M11

Named for our friend and comrade Bobby Model who was killed  in a freak "traffic" accident in Africa. The route ascends Buffalo Horn Spire on its north arete. The spire was first climbed (left of  M11) by a pair of Montanans  using only a few bolts and in a very bold manner. M11 is an excellent rock climb and big adventure. For the most part it has excellent rock, though rockfall from the ledges is possible and, of course, anything this long will have a loose block here and there. All anchors are set up so they do not need webbing. All parties should take a wrench with them to tighten any bolts that have loosened with time. If you need to bivy the best spot is in the notch at pitch 14.

pitch 1 = Find the start next to a couple of trees near where the fence meets the wall. Climb up and right for 20 meters passing 6 bolts to a good ledge. 5.9

pitch 2 = Move up and left onto steeper ground then over a bulge to a stance belay. 6 bolts, 5.10a

pitch 3 = Hit the crux right above the belay (5.10b) then move up and right along a dihedral, then over the dihedral and up a clean face to a good ledge. 25 meters long with 9 bolts

pitch 4 = Climb  up broken corners pretty much straight up to a ledge. 7 bolts and 5.7

pitch 5 = Climb very clean rock for 30 meters to a sloping alcove. 7 bolts

pitch 6 = Climb up and right to a dihedral, move left to a smaller ledge. 7 bolts and 25 meters

pitch 7 = Go up and left passing a bulge on its left, then climb very smooth rock and traverse back right and down a few feet to a belay at a tree. 5.10d, 30 meters, 11 bolts

pitch 8 = Climb a clean face to nubbins on the right at 5.10c for 30 meters. 9 bolts

pitch 9 = The crux. Difficult to flash. Climb up and right along a corner, then pull over the bulge and reach a steep headwall. Climb this  and then pass onto the slab above on the right side of the bulge to a nice ledge with a tree. This can be done as 5.10-C0 but its reachy... an extender quickdraw is useful. To free it is 5.11c and you need 14 quickdraws. 33 meters.

pitch 10 = Climb a clean face straight up to a large ledge for 33 meters. 9 bolts

pitch 11 = Climb up and right, passing a shrubbery with a move that seems it might be slightly harder than 5.8, then between  some trees to an alcove. 34 meters and 7 bolts

pitch 12 = Climb up and into the obvious runnel. It gets easier as you get higher. 5.10d, 30 meters, and has 10 bolts.

pitch 13 = Go up over a couple bulges then trend left to the summit of  the lower slabs. Its 5.8 and has 5 bolts where you need them. 27 meters

pitch 14 = Carefully downclimb into the notch, about 15 feet of 5.3, then hike up past a few trees for 50-60 feet.

pitch 15 = Climb up and slightly left then trend right on 5.9 climbing for 27 meters. 8 bolts.

pitch 16 = Climb up and slightly right on very clean rock with a 5.10b crux. There is a ledge with a nasty yucca to grab your rope. 27 meters and 7 bolts

pitch 17 = Climb up and right over a series of bulges to a good ledge with 7 bolts for 25 meters. Its 5.10c.

pitch 18 = Again up and a little more right on slightly easier ground  for 25 meters to a good ledge. 6 bolts at 5.8

pitch 19 = Climb up and onto the arete then trend back left into a large alcove. 5.6, 25 meters, and 4 bolts

pitch 20 = follow the arete for 25 meters to a small stance where it steepens. This is 5.5 and has only 4 bolts. If you bring enough quickdraws you can link this pitch with the next.

pitch 21 = Climb up the broken crack then follow the arete, using both sides, for 34 meters to a hanging stance just below a ledge. Any further and you could not have rappelled it with a single 70meter rope.

pitch 22 = Climb some broken ground then trend left onto a bulge to a stance just a few feet below the summit. Its 25 meters and has 4 bolts at 5.7.

Rappel the route on a single 70 meter rope (not a 68 meter rope). Be careful with those ends as some of the pitches max out the 70 meter rope. The rappels take quite a while.

About 75 yards left of Colter's Rib

Take 14 quickdraws. You can carry a light rack of cams, but we didn't use any.