Jenni’s Way

Jenni’s Way is an outstanding two pitch variation to the beginning of Serendipity Arete. The rock quality is impeccable, the cracks are splitter, and the position on the first tower is excellent! This is a highly recommend start to Serendipity for those climbing at the grade.

P1. Essentially, climb the entire first pitch of Serendipity Arete. After the 5.7 “hand traverse right above slab,” belay at a stance on the arete. Serendipity continues right around the corner, and the crack system on the opening pitch of Jenni’s Way is clearly visible above.

P2. Climb the steep splitter left of the belay up toward some small roofs/bulges on the arete. At the second bulge, traverse hard left along a horizontal splitter that fractures the face and provides just enough footholds to make it manageable (not really seen from the belay). This felt like the 5.10 crux of the route. Continue up and left along a broken, discontinuous 5.9 crack system and belay beneath the beckoning hand crack above. (50m)

P3. Climb the beautiful 5.10- splitter In the face above which gradually tapers into a more variable crack system. Belay on flat ground above near the top of the first tower on Serendipity Arete. (30m)

P4+ Continue up Serendipity to the summit of Owen. Descend the West Ledges back into Vahalla, down climb the Koven, or link with the North Ridge/Italian Cracks on the Grand.

Same approach as Serendipity Arete. The cracks on Jenni’s Way can be examined from the Valhalla Canyon approach.

Standard rack with at least doubles from .5 to #3, stoppers. Triples in #2 and #3 would not be unreasonable for the first pitch.