Dr. Coolhead

Want to test your friction skills? This is the route! Working the steep face on micro edges will have your tips burning and only great footwork will get you through. The lower moves are protected by a small cam in the lower crack and bolts up above. The crux is passing the 1st bolt, with some different options. I prefer to work it straight up focusing on balancy feet. Some like moving right to a juggy ledge to overcome. Work the thin edges to the top and keep out of Alice's crack!

The face just right of Crazy Alice.

2 Bolts and some small cams down low. Chain Anchor. Hardware replaced Feb 2020.

If you blow the first bolt, a standard belay will let you deck. A dynamic belay can lessen the impact, if not avoid it, so bring a compentent partner. Hopping off the belay ledge as the fall occours seems to be the most effective technique. Get good spotters, and a crash pad never hurt anyone. Except that girl who broke her ankle tripping over one....