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Peak Mountain 3

Finger of Fate Free

FA Pete Robins and Ben Bransbury
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A few people have asked me to add this separately from the Aid climb of the finger.

P1: straightforward 5.11

P2: tricky off the start, sustained. Place pro after you use the pin scars otherwise it will be much harder 5.12  or E6.

P3: tricky off the belay as well,sustained 5.12 or E6 
(P2, P3 and P8 are the most sustained climbing)

P4: The roof- a good fingerlock between the fixed tricams leads to a hard mantle. Easy climbing follows with poor pro. 5.12 E5

P5: Flaring chimney that you can protect with a #4 5.10

P6: Traverse around the duck 5.3

P7: Pinscar boulder problem in the mud seam leads to easy climbing, then a tricky mantle. Good pro the entire pitch 12d (the BP felt V6-7 to us)

P8: Strange blobs lead to a few hard moves on slopers and bad feet. Continue left in the crack to good rock. 5.12+

Good updated bolts and exposure make this pitch one of the best

P9: Scramble to the summit 5.4

After working sundevil chimney I realized the rock on finger of fate is actually pretty dang solid with a light dusking of choss or sand on top.

Location

Same as for the aid climb.

Protection

Offsets, cams to 4. Yellow C3 was nice to have. Totems probably fit better than any other cams