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Peak Mountain 3

Roototop

FA unknown
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Description

On the far right of Helen's Dome is a nice, 4 pitch, bolted route up the slabs.

P1. Go up a round arete to a tree, 100', 5.7.

P2. Continue up a short, steep face (probably 5.9 but optional - you can go right up an easy crack and step back left), then follow bolts to a semi-hanging belay, 100', 5.9 (or 5.8).

P3. Climb more slab to a hanging belay where the angle eases, 100', 5.7.

P4. Finish up the East slab to the top, 140', 5.5.

It is not as nicely consistent as

FFT

, but it is a fun outing.

I use this route to descend

FFT

  • you need 2 ropes. You can rap P2 and P3 at just under 200'.

The route continues to the top of Sheepshead - this only covers the part on Helen's.

Location

On the far right side of the slabs of

Fractured Fairy Tales

, this line of bolts on P1 is obvious.

Protection

10 or 11 draws.