- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start is brief right facing corner .5 to .75, short bit of broken climbing to a stance underneath the hand crack. Hero hands out the overhang to 3s get you to the base of the stacked blocks. Step onto the stack for a breather before the crux - wicked cool flare climbing with .5s in the back
Location
Locate the Hong Buttress. The route is on the left side of the buttress, right of the main gully descending to the canyon floor. The route is striking, even all the way from the parking area.
There isn't much of a trail but the hike up really isn't too bad.
Protection
.5 - 3 C4. Fingers, tips protect the section of hand jamming behind the stacked blocks. Bring a hand size cam to back up the anchor.
As of Nov 2018, the anchor was two girth hitched studs and a small sorta okay stopper. There is nothing wrong with the bolts, if someone were to carry up a couple of real 3/8 anchor set ups (and probably nuts for the studs, can't remember exactly) that would go a long way in restoring this obscure classic.
Routes in Disappointment Cliffs
- 14Last Resort5.11Trad