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Peak Mountain 3

Maudlin

FA James Garrett and Glen Kaplan, 21 November 2007
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This bolted, moderate line adds some variety and choice to the few well-protected and very well-traveled routes on this popular wall.

Pitch #1: To the left of the main cleft or dihedral which is to the left of the popular Italian Arete, climb up a slight spur of rock passing two small roofs on mostly big, climber-friendly holds. Continue to the top of the wall to a two-bolt belay. 5.7.

Carefully rappel the route or lower with an 80m rope. Walking off may be safer and recommended. If using a shorter rope than an 80m, Rappel x 2 via the midway ledge atop Italian Arete to the right Which won't leave you hanging.

Location

This is on the East Face of the Salt Lake City Slips. An obvious bolted long line climbs between the

Italian Arete

and

Forgotten Ambition

(I think mostly a forgotten route, as well?).

This is a

LONG ROUTE

....longer than the average sport route in the vicinity and elsewhere in BCC. Descent can be achieved by walking off or by rappelling with a

80m ROPE

(two ropes is probably better). If you choose to rappel with a shorter rope another option is via

2 RAPS

, one to Italian Arete ledge with one 50m or one 60m rope and then to the ground would be another option.

Protection

12 QDs