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Peak Mountain 3

In the Pokey

FA EFR, 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Walk-off required

A fun, but run-out adventure climb. You should be very comfortable at this grade. After the first pitch, which is probably 200-220 feet by itself, another hundred feet of 3rd/4th class scrambling will take you to the top of Barnum Rock. Walk off back to the base. The route goes into the shade in the late afternoon.

If you have a 70m rope and sling everything long, you'll just barely be able to make it to the 2-bolt anchor, which is about 15 meters above a small pine tree growing out of the rock. If you can't make that, there are some (but not many) options for a gear anchor lower down.

Location

You pass by it on the way to Gumby Wall proper. It's on the east face, before you scramble up the gully to access Gumbuttress and everything to the left of it. 

Protection

Overall, there aren't a lot of options for pro. Plan to go 20 or 30 feet between placements. I used nuts and cams up to #3 Camalot. If you like tricams, you'll find places to use them. Higher up, there are some plates that will remind you of Rappel Rock or Cochise. There is a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the pitch (which is easy to miss), and then it's another 100 feet of 3rd/4th-class to the top of Barnum Rock, which you can either un-rope and solo (it's pretty casual), or stay roped up and belay off of gear at the top, and then walk off to the north.