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Peak Mountain 3

Stumpjumper

FA Cedar Wright and Renan Ozturk, 2007
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route starts in the third dihedral system on the Stump before veering out right about half way up the formation to more cracks and occasional sections of face climbing. The route climbs mostly solid rock with quality splitters that will leave you hooting and hollering. There are of course sections of loose blocks, scary flakes, and grainy flares as is typical in the Gorge. Protection is mostly all there but not straight forward. We found the 10r pitch to not feel too r but many of the other pitches were heads up. The only fixed gear on route are two pitons at the first anchor. Rap Goldfinger to descend.Cedar and Renan call this the best route on the Stump but I would argue Goldfinger still takes the cake. Regardless, this is an awesome line that is worthy of more ascents and the lack of fixed anchors is a nice appeal for those seeking more of an adventure.Regarding the original topo... The first pitch is about 180 feet (not 350 w/ simul). We climbed pitches 7 to 9 in 3 pitches and broke up pitch 10 into 2. I would recommend doing the same unless you're down for some 5.10r simuling. 

Location

The third major dihedral system from the left (Goldfinger is the first)

Protection

Doubles from tiny to #3, healthy selection of small and offset nuts, nut tool for gardening, 2 60m ropes


Routes in The Stump