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Peak Mountain 3

Bell Crack

FA Henry Barber
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UPDATED 

Description

Are you ready for a challenging off width experience? Bell Crack will probably ring your chimes. The only place it goes as thin as 'hands' is below the roof (crux), most of the climb is above it.

First, TAPE UP! Then begin on the Center Coke Bottle at #1 (on the photo-topo) and instead of traversing left as described for #1 (Boardwalk), go straight out, up and over the bulging roof on strenuous, rattly fists Once you round the roof, start placing the big pro bro (see the shot). Then enter a gaping, 30' high flaring maw, stem up and protect it at the back if you want to take the time. Set another wide piece at the top of this nasty gash and begin heel and toe-ing up a vertical 35' gutter full of feldspar crystals - good friction! Belay on gear at the rounded top as indicated (B) on the topo for route # 1.

Your second will curse at you all the way to the top.

Protection

Minimum gear: Cams (Camalots) 2 each from #1 up to #2 1/2; at least 3 #3's; at least 2 #3 1/2's and/or 3 #2 Big Bros. Also several medium to large wires. (You'll need a couple of medium cams and wires for the belay at top.)