- Edit (TBD)
Description
This climb is a fantastic climb in a beautiful alpine setting, not too far away from your car. Mostly 5.7 climbing with a couple 5.9 cruxes interspersed on each pitch. Each crux is only a couple moves long though. The route is well bolted with protection in just the right places. I never counted, but I think 10 draws will do it. Bring a few extra just in case.
Pitch 1 (90'): Start the climb on the first crux right off the ground. Climb up and around the triangular roof to the right onto easier ground. Keep following bolts past the ledge with a tree until you find chains.
Pitch 2 (90'): Climb the next crux right after the P1 anchor. Gain access to easier ground until you get to the third crux, a one move wonder over an overhang. Back onto easier ground until you get to a ledge with chains on the right side of the Arête.
Pitch 3 (90'): Follow the bolts on the right side of the Arête through two more short cruxes. Keep going till you get to the top of a pillar where chains are waiting for you.
P2 could 'probably' be combined with either P1 or P3. Rope drag might be a hassle though.
Descent: Either single rope rappel w/ a 60 meter rope back down the route, or double rope rappel with 70's off the right side of the Arête all the way back to the ground. Beware of loose gulley debris if you do it this way.
Keep an eye out for the climb that shares anchors at the 2nd pitch. It's a really fun 'add on' if you have the time.
Protection
Quick Draws. I think 10 draws does it, but bring more just in case. All pitches have chain anchors and you can bail from any pitch if need be.
Routes in Britney Spears Arête
- 1Oops, I Did It Again5.9Sport · Alpine