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Peak Mountain 3

Jonny Mon

FA Brian Ketron (July 2002)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The very steep bolted arete to the left of The Gong Show (the roofcrack). The 4th bolt is in a weird location. The natural line climbs up the low-angle right side of the arete on crimps to a finger jam under the roof, then pulls out the roof from there. But to clip the 4th bolt you have to do a very strenuous hand switch on one of the crimps and lean around the corner to make the clip. It's so far left that it suggests the FAist inteded for the line to traverse left after the 3rd bolt to a rounded lieback crack and then clip the 4th bolt from over there? However, making the span over to the left crack is much harder than 12c if you don't have a HUGE wingspan, and even if you can make the reach this variation is probably a couple grades harder. Maybe 12b for the right var, 12d for the left var (with a 6'2" wingspan!)

In any case, turning the little roof is fun and wild, and has a shallow pod that's just the right size for a pretty good hand jam. Finish up an easy corner and move left around an arete to find the anchor.

Location

Scramble up the gully to reach the ledge system that The Gong Show and Tripping Old Birds begin off of

Protection

Bolts