The Wedge

A short distance to the right and slightly uphill from Wart Hog it is possible to access a vegetated 3rd-class ledge system that slants up and left toward Jack Pinnacle, above all the routes between Wart Hog and The Tube.  This ledge is used to access several routes, including The Wedge, Eraser Flake, and My-Toe-Sis.  Note that when traversing the ledge to access routes further left of The Wedge there are some potentially dangerous, loose and exposed sections that must be navigated.

The Wedge is a large, exfoliation slab above and near the beginning of the access ledge, and its left side forms an obvious left-facing corner with a sinister-looking wide crack.  The bottom of the crack is finger-width, and it widens gradually to off-width higher up - it is 8” wide through the upper section (5.10c).  For anyone who likes climbing off-widths, The Wedge is an impressive and appealing line.

The crack is accessed via difficult face climbing from the access ledge, directly below the obvious off-width above.

Start by climbing a system of thin cracks and flakes to where this flake system peters out about 25 ft. up (5.10).  Make a difficult move left, committing onto a good-sized hand-hold, and do a gymnastic move to stand up on your right foot on that hold (5.11b R).  Once standing have a sling ready to place over a small knob, weighting this with some gear if you can, and make an easier move or two to reach the good crack and bomber protection.  From here continue up the widening and well-protected crack to a double-bolt anchor.  Rappel 80 ft.

Near the start of the 3rd-class access ledge system, which itself is just right of and uphill from Wart Hog.

Bring a variety of wires and small cams, with pieces all the way up to 8"