Surprise Direct

This is a third pitch variation to

Surprise

that improves upon that route with a slightly harder but much cleaner last pitch.

P1) Start in the middle of the wall and climb a short right-facing corner system (thin pro), then continue up and left on unprotected but very easy face (5.0) to a 3 bolt anchor.

P2) Up and right along a ramp/flake system to reach a bolt (5.8) and then into an easy right-facing corner atop which is a 3 bolt belay (the regular belay for Surprise). Clip this anchor and continue right to a separate 2 bolt anchor.

P3) Steep friction face (5.9) past three bolts to a gear belay on top.

Descend via the Bye Gully.

Bolts, gear to 3 inches