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Peak Mountain 3

No Sleep Til' Campton

FA Don McGlone, Matt Tackett, 2005
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Great technical line with only a few moves at the grade.

Start near a tree at a dip in the trail. Make a long move to get established on the iron horizontals. Clip the first bolt and make the easy moves to the last bolt before the roof. Make a difficult traverse to get established in the groove directly below the roof (crux). Make a tricky reach to pull the roof and enjoy the easy slab to the top.

Location

From the approach trail head left for a few hundred feet until you drop down into a dip. Right as the trail begins to go up again near a tree the route starts. Obvious less than vertical face with several bolts leading to a roof left of the bolt line.

Protection

11 bolts to a two bolt anchor. A few long draws for the two bolts before and after the roof. 60m to rappel.