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Peak Mountain 3

Lancaster Levels Luxor

FA George Reid, Todd & Donette Swain, Oct. 1994.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A bulge crux leads to pumpy terrain.

This classic crack is on the right side of Dickies Cliff. Head up easy terrain to a steep crack with an initial roof. Throw in some pro and some jams to negotiate the roof. Above the roof you will find a steep crack with good pro, good jams, and good edges. Near the top the climbing eases off. I think this climb is about 80 feet high.

Descent: Head right / west and 4th class down the gullies on the right side of the cliff. The third narrow gully on climbers right seemed easiest, but be careful.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. A #4 is perfect for protecting the roof. Use medium cams for the anchor (no bolt anchor).


Routes in Dickies Cliff