The Grand Traverse

An Arkansas classic and true gem of the state.

The longest route in the region featured on one of the more impressive amphitheaters around.

Beware: This is a commiting lead for the follower as any falls will result in a pendulum swing that can be rather scary for inexperienced followers. Be aware of the grade and make sure you're comfortable in terrain of this style. It's also a good idea to bring some long runners/alpine draws to mitigate some of the drag you can experience on this route. 

P1: "The Golden Shower" 5.11a

 Locate the ledge feature on the left side of the wall (traverse runs L-R). There will be a pair of glue in bolts (route has been recently updated with SS glue ins back in 2013). Traverse right from here with some easy to moderate terrain until you reach the crux bolt (bolt #5). Decipher the crux bulge and move onward to the anchors. Take a sigh as the hardest part of the climb is now over. *there tends to be a bit of wetness on this route depending upon season. Ideally avoid this route during wet conditions as the nature of the rock is rather soft.

P2: 5.10b

Adventure onward through the traverse; beware of the sandy slopes ahead and other possible natural cruxes you may encounter. Pretty fun movement on some questionable quality stone will lead you to the third pitch anchors.

P3: 5.10a "The Mean Green"

Continue your traverse adventure till you reach a large ledge. Pull around the ledge and find the somewhat hidden bolt before gaining the balancy crux. From here you reach the anchors and can make a rappel to the ground (as is the most popular option these days) or utilize the trad gear you may have lugged along to do the historical finish per the FA parties route. ("Original Finish 5.11a).

In all this route is a very safe adventurous quest that pales in comparison to any other multipitch in the state. Well worth the effort and adventure to climb.

From the trailhead where you park: Venture down the trail trending west until you reach the seasonal waterfall located on your left. Go beneath the falls and trend left (southwest) following the cliffband until you reach the obvious amphitheater of rock that is unmistakably the grand traverse.

Locate the bolt line and identify the starting ledge.

SS Glue ins and bolts. Bring slings/runner probably about 6/7. Full rack of draws 12-14 should do