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Peak Mountain 3

Little Walt

FA Janie Chodosh, Fred Berman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Three star movement on one star rock, just like most everything at the Bear Crag. Not a bad warm up if you are familiar with the flavor of choss found on this wall. Just remember not to overgrip just because most of the holds could break off at any moment.

Start up large sloper edges through a slight bulge while aiming for the left side of huge semi-detached choss blob. Make few layback moves up the crack and then angle left into steeper terrain with slightly better rock quality. Pull over another small bulge on better quality edges and climb vertical terrain to the anchor.

Like a large number of routes at the Bear Crag it's not a bad idea to stick clip the first (or even second) bolt because the rock at the base of this route is quite loose. It's pretty easy to stick clip the second bolt on this rig from the roots of the dead tree you will likely stand on while putting on your shoes.

There is a random single bolt above and to the right of the choss blob. No idea what that's all about but I wouldn't go over there.

Location

This is currently the fourth bolted route you will come to after the approach trail meets the wall. This route stands by itself, a hundred feet or so South of Exappeal. There is a sun bleached dead log leaning against the wall just to the right of the start of the route. It's best to walk slightly past the route and the log and then double back close to the wall to get to the base. Approaching the route directly would involve twenty feet of swimming through the brambles.

Protection

Eight quickdraw to a two bolt which is equipped for lowering.


Routes in 1) Hibernation Caves