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Peak Mountain 3

The Window

FA Royal Robbins and Peter Robinson 8/1964; FFA: Pitch 1: Sean Nelb, July 10, 2011
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Description

The classic, seldom-repeated Royal Robbins aid line has gone free at last! Or at least the first pitch has. The Window features stemming, tip-jams, and face climbing on one of the most impressive features of the Tower. Follow a thinning crack in a dihedral, getting progressively harder after 50 ft. Bolted anchors can be found next to a broken area on the face.

The remaining route is still an aid line. The thin crack continues and more face holds open up before anchors can be found under the imposing, difficult, A4 overhang that looms above. Come free it!

Location

On the left side of the roofs that make up the Window formation on the Tower, climb the right side of a distinct, orange-colored column. Three cracks right of Animal Cracker Land.

Protection

Thin. Small wires to #1 camalot. Optional #3 or #4 camalot for the start. Remaining pitches unknown. One 70 meter rope will get you down with a little 3rd class to the ledge.