- Edit (TBD)
Description
Maybe the steepest thing here? Boulder through the green rock moving left, easing on jugs to 4th or 5th bolt, then a decisive and reachy crimping crux (always dry to this point, even in full downpour), through an extensively glued section. Entirely four-finger holds to this point, a rarity. Glueins to here, ending at the rain anchor (6th) clipping at the "crescent jug". 12c without a kneepad, .12-ish with.Then a hard (est. v10 or harder) boulder with serious spans, edges, pockets. Several sequences are viable. This upper section gets seeps from rain, but also sees full AM sun. The rock quality improves up here as well. Temporary bolts through the extension. step left, then finish with an easier parkour/balance move to get to the chains at the lip of the wave.An impressive feature with inconsistant rock. Took alot of glue and cleaning to make it climbable with some level of longevity. Likely to continue to change a bit if breakage continues. Easy to move the bolts on the extension so let me know if you have preferences. the upper bolts are temporary and it may be good to have a wrench on hand to tighten them if they're moving.This route has exhausted my willingness to glue so I probably won't bolt on this wall much more. Definitely have at the rest of the wall.
Location
The center project at the break. Begins in the green patch and heads up and left following huecos and rails.
Protection
5 glueins to 2 bolt anchor (sortof wide set), then temporary threaded anchors through the extension, 2 at the lip, 9ish bolts totalMostly hung with ratty permas
Routes in The Break
- 3"Disintegration Loops" open project, center5.14-Sport