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Peak Mountain 3

Fractured Fairytale

FA Glenn Schuler & Wayne Smith
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Scramble up & left 20' to a short, water polished dihedral with a small bush at the bottom of it. Climb up & over a funky overhang with big jugs and get stood up on the ledge over the lip (crux). Be sure to put in a directional piece here before traversing left across the ledge. Continue up the zig-zagging splitter finger crack towards a small dead tree on the left side of the prow. Finish straight up the exposed upper section to the anchors.

There is a direct start with two bolts that goes at .12c (FA Mark Anderson). It currently has a quick link on the second bolt.

Location

From the Reptile Butress go right for about a 100' or so until you find a small flat, grassy patch at the base of another prominent butress.

Protection

Standard rack, bring extra cams from TCUs to 1 1/2" sizes. Also bring plenty of long runners.