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Peak Mountain 3

Cracking Point

FA John and Co.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route goes up the center of the face right in between Lost Soles and Chain Mail Hula Skirt.  It's a great line but the gear placements can be tricky for shorter people.  Some easy face climbing brings you into a large indent in the wall where you can compose on decent hands and feet before continuing to the harder part of the route.  Exit the indent out to the right and pull your way up into the vertical crack where Lost Soles and Chain Mail Hula Skirt intersect to get to the anchors.  If you exit the indent to the left you will just end up traversing into the start/middle of Lost Soles which is considered to be off route.

The crux of this route involves a left hand pinch/sidepull that you grab shortly after exiting the indent out right.  From this handhold you throw for the crack with your right hand and then finish on easier terrain.  The safest way to do the route is to blindly place gear in the crack above you before pulling the crux moves which is why I mention that it may be difficult for shorter people because if you cant reach the crack from below the crux you will have to pull some decently hard moves without any gear in.  It sounds like blind placements would be sketchy but the crack above the crux is so perfect for .75 cams that you can confidently place them without looking.  I will say it might be worth taking a look at it on toprope before going for the lead just to be on the safe side.

Location

Cracking Point is located on the far left side of Dad's Wall in between Lost Soles and Chain Mail Hula Skirt.  All three routes share the same anchors.

Protection

If you are decently tall you should be able to reach up to the horizontal crack to place a .75 before going through the crux of the route.  You wont be able to see in the crack for the placement but the crack is perfect for gear and it is very possible to make safe placements without looking.  If you can manage to get these placements in before pulling the moves that get you up to the crack and lip then the climb is safe but if you are shorter and have to get through the crux before placing any gear it can get pretty dicey.  Boulder pads may help you feel safer.