Tagger

This is a great climb.

P1. Start with a technical .9 crack underneath an overhang. This pitch has a reputation for being hard to protect,

bullocks

, it accepts small stoppers without a problem. Break left, surmount the roof and belay at a tree with two bolts next to it.

P2. Although one can do the crux roof from here, it is a pain in the ass. I do a short 5.6 pitch to the base of the dihedral that forms the crux roof. From here, climb up the dihedral (easy) and tackle the roof via several technical stemming type moves (solid 5.10) there is some 5.8 above the roof to a belay on a ledge. The pro in the roof (pins) isn't too bad, a #1 Camalot can be placed at the lip to further protect it.

Bring several small stoppers in addition to a standard rack.